L'Hotel São Paulo*****Al. Campinas, 266 (Bela Vista)Half a block south of Avenida Paulista, near the InterContinental, and one block southwest of the Maksoud Hotel, this establishment is the best in the city for those who prefer taking their luxuries in small, select doses—one small restaurant and pub, one small gym, one small pool, and 75 medium-sized guest rooms with small but glimmering baths. The rates are the only big thing here but are fair, for this place is charming, and the service is a good as it gets. Opened in 1994, this pretty 14-story hotel has a brass plaque at its entrance, giving it the feel of a plush apartment house. Also at the entrance are regal black-carpeted steps trimmed with calico runners that are replaced daily. The refined lobby is laid out simply, adorned with a stunning floral bouquet, soft colors, travertine walls and minimal seating. An attractive reception desk and separate area for the concierge greet guests as they enter. Stairs rise to the second level, passing at the landing an exquisite 16th-century museum-quality Belgian tapestry. The second floor offers the Trebbiano restaurant, which serves from an Italian menu in elegant precincts surveying the street. It opens for a la carte dinners and a breakfast buffet. On the same floor across the atrium from the restaurant is the small English-style pub. Il Plano makes up for its small size by offering only top-shelf liquors and Cuban cigars. Its marble-topped tables, rich-wood tones and tartan-patterned walls give the pub a warm and inviting atmosphere. A pianist plays in the atrium, letting music be heard in both the restaurant and pub during the evening hours. The rooftop fitness center consists of three treadmills, a rowing machine, a sauna and an indoor pool. Although the gym is small, it is beautifully appointed and conducive to a relaxing workout. When the pool is being heated, swimmers should bring earplugs to dampen the noise of the waterfall thundering under the acrylic barrel vault; otherwise, it is a serene atmosphere. The events area has recently been expanded and renovated. All five of the modest but pleasant meeting rooms boast natural light, and two of the rooms have access to an attractive terrace for coffee breaks and cocktails. The business center is well-equipped. Parking is free. Pets are not allowed. Each floor is built around the central atrium, and the views down to the lobby are dizzying. The seven guest rooms on each floor are thoroughly elegant, maintained with an eye for detail. All provide logo-emblazoned carpeting, soft colors, oak desks, marble-topped pedestal nightstands, beds trimmed with ruffles, oak closets and romantic window treatments. Modern plasma TVs, stereos, high-speed Internet access, data ports, minibars and safes are the standard fittings. Suites have two baths, one off the living room area and one off the separate bedroom. The living rooms are comfortable and functional with plum sofas, end tables adorned with elegant cloisonne lamps, and Edwardian-style dining tables with four chairs. In suites, very functional office areas offer oak desks with all the electronic connections requisite for those doing serious business travel. Bedrooms are adorned with green- and pink-tone floral patterns and wood-trimmed headboards. Italian marble shines in the tiny baths appointed with phones, robes and hair dryers. Marble whirlpool tubs are deep but have uncomfortable ledges that dig into the back when one reclines. Rooms are set aside for nonsmokers and travelers with disabilities. Room service runs 24 hours, and all laundry and ironing services must be requested through the valet. A new, unique and highly praised service is the hotel's "personal shopper." Hotel staffers will track down anything you want to buy that can be found in Sao Paulo, including hard-to-find items, or they will deliver clothing to your room for you to try on, select and purchase. This elegant hotel has become a popular setting for fashion photo shoots and for the filming of scenes in Brazilian telenovelas and advertising spots. The young yet stylish staff is a standout, working hard to maintain a sense of privilege among guests. This rarity, a Brazilian boutique-hotel, is a sure antidote to Paulista bigness. Prices:
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